2008 Woodie Awards
FOOD REVIEW - Urban Solace brings wellness to your wallet
Lauren Ciallella
Issue date: 2/26/08 Section: Arts
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Contributor
Possibly one of the best phrases in the English language, "pile of cheese biscuits with orange honey butter" had me so excited that I called my mom, sensing she would be proud of a daughter who had stumbled upon Urban Solace (3823 30th St), a fresh "feedery" nourishing the soul (and wallet) through upscale comfort cuisine. A further venture in cleansing North Park's appetitive aura, Solace staged its September, soft opening to hardcore success as an affordable, neighborhood sanctuary.
Solace's sponged cake exterior (in texture and hue) sliced by white window trim and embraced by a 'Big Easy' style balcony (perfect for throwing beads), never alluded to the cultured kingdom unfolding inside. Lured by a fiery hearth of tasteful surroundings (stained glass windows, exposed brick and a spattering of original artwork), we were led past crisp linens and diabolically selected color schemes to a candlelit table for four (only after sipping stellar wines at the well-lit, well tended bar and perusing a patio pulsing with electric warmth).
Our waitress, Christine, bore no resemblance to Stephen King's calculating car, but possessed a type of enthusiasm that geared her standard of excellence into overdrive. She was always on hand when needed, but never overbearing and I was immediately lulled into coddled contentment. As we perused the menu, we noticed executive chef Matt Gordon had taken his 17 years of experience, along with his new role as founding partner, and devised an inventive menu landing him on the comfort food fast track. This AAA approach (Ambiance, Attitude and Abundance of soul-soothing dishes) had all masterfully stuffed a comforter of serenity, delivering a complimentary order of "warm fuzzies" as we settled in to dine.
Who needs gravy when you have orange honey butter? This citrus twist acted as wing man in America's answer to chips and salsa. Just as you should never grocery shop when you're hungry, ravenous impulses can be just as dangerous when ordering out. An immediate call for cheddar cheese biscuits ($4) threw a hot ball of chive ridden dough in our grabby mitts to avoid such dire dining decisions. A more opulent option for pre-meal munching was the Sonoma goat cheese and squash spread ($5) served with baguette and cornmeal crackers. This tangy, buttery dip was only upstaged by the cornmeal fried delights that Solace referred to as "crackers".
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